EBERNOE

Taking a track to the left of the church leads downhill. Very shortly a path on the left goes to Furnace Meadow. Cross the stile and walk to the end of the Meadow, looking down into the valley and then return, or watch out for a stile on the other of the Valley. Crossing at this point will take you along a winding path and you will eventually come out on a main track (Green Road), on the other side of which is the Fish Pond.

There are lots of other foot-paths in the Reserve which allow easy exploration, but it is easy to become hopelessly lost - I did so myself on one memorable occasion! This woodland has an enchanted feel about it! Please keep to the foot-paths and if you have a dog with you, remember that there may be livestock in Furnace Meadow (mainly Sheep but sometimes Dexter cattle), and there are plenty of Roe Deer here.

DATES to AVOID in 2004!: Moto-Cross events will be taking place close by the Reserve on various dates throughout 2004 - 22 February; 04 April; 03 May; 06 June; 04 July; 08 August; 19 September; 17 October; and 21 November. Any dates may be subject to change.

BIRDLIFE: A visit at any time of the year is to be recommended, but especially in spring through to early autumn. The usual resident Wealden' species are characteristic, to which summer migrants and birds of passage add lots of flavour! Species to be noted include Bullfinch (not so regular in many places nowadays); Marsh Tit, Hobby (very late spring into the autumn); all three woodpeckers and so on. In scrub areas, the Nightingale is a sparing breeder. Winter birds include Siskin and Redpoll, in some years occurring in good numbers.

MAMMALS: Roe Deer occur in some numbers and signs of Dormice have been detected. Stoats occur, usually seen when in pursuit of Rabbits, one of their favourite items of prey. Altogether, more than a dozen species of mammal have been recorded.

PLANTS: Many woodland plants are at home here, and the area is noted for its Orchids. At least three hundred species of plants are listed, this number exceeded by fungi. Above all, perhaps, are the trees.

INSECTS: Depending upon the season and, of course, the weather, butterflies can be interesting. Silver-washed Fritillary is occasional, although there are few rides which this species favours. Speckled Woods are numerous, both Meadow Brown and Gatekeeper occur, and the Brimstone may be numerous in the spring, and so on.

Surprisingly, perhaps, dragonflies can be excellent. Hairy Dragonflies are common early in the summer, especially at Furnace Pond. Common Darters are also common, and the Ruddy Darter can occur in considerable numbers at the Fish Pond where, almost certainly, it breeds. I have noted Southern Hawkers, Broad-bodied Chasers, and that lovely insect, the Beautiful Demoiselle (Calopteryx virgo). The Golden-ringed Dragonfly is also here, but is hard to find. The Hornet is often a mid-summer feature of sunny places on the Reserve.

REPTILES and AMPHIBIANS: Open areas provide an excellent habitat for Adders which are frequent and especially visible in the early spring. Common Lizards are likewise found in open places, and the Grass Snake is probably more numerous than sightings would suggest. Slow Worms also are to be found, although we have not seen one as yet. Frogs and Toads occur in appropriate places, as do Smooth and Palmate Newts.

To give you a flavour of this lovely area, several Diary entries follow below. Our visits have been mainly during the summer, but we have also had profitable autumn walks.

mid-SUMMER
2000 - 16 June:
It was pleasant sitting under the OAK trees on the edge of the car-park, enjoying what was by now a hot and sunny day. BULLFINCHES were calling and a BLACKCAP was singing. The orchids around the Old School House and in the churchyard were making quite a show. So far as I could see, they were all COMMON SPOTTED ORCHIDS. I had a look at the BROAD-LEAVED HELLEBORINES, too. These are flourishing as they were recently when I had looked at them with Jim and Judith. Other plants in the churchyard were OX-EYE DAISIES and WHITE BEDSTRAW, plus a tiny FORGET-ME-NOT. A MEADOW BROWN was nectaring at BUTTERCUP' flowers.

Afterwards, I walked down to the Furnace Pond where I found two DOWNY EMERALDS hawking along the edge of the reeds. There was at least one EMPEROR out there, too, a male, showing blue nicely. A STOCK DOVE was singing. A LARGE RED DAMSELFLY was seen, also some blue damselflies, but which species I could not be sure. Walked to the ride where the cables go across. BULLFINCHES were calling. Coming back, I crossed the spillway, seeing a silent GREY WAGTAIL as I did so.

When I was here last time, some two months ago, I had a look at a stream which I thought might be suitable for Golden-ringed Dragonflies. Well, I still think so, but on this occasion saw something almost as good. The water was flowing nicely and there was one stretch some 30 feet long where I could see a small fish. As I looked, something fluttered up and then disappeared. On investigation, it proved to be a male CALOPTERYX VIRGO, but there was not just one, but three! I had wonderful views from above as they flew and displayed over the stream. One of them flew off over the vegetation, in pursuit of a LARGE RED DAMSELFLY. I saw a single BLUE-TAILED DAMSELFLY, also an AZURE DAMSELFLY which I identified through the camera lens. A few yards away were many HEMLOCK WATER DROPWORT plants in flower. Idly glancing at them, I was astonished to see a huge HORNET which was clearly hunting through them, seeking prey. Eventually, it came rather too close for comfort so I withdrew!

Walking back, I stopped under the trees by the Furnace Pond, largely to see whether the DOWNY EMERALDS might come closer. Looking around, I discovered COMMON VALERIAN, just a few plants and with flowers almost white, rather than pink. Perhaps the comparative lack of light had something to do with this.

As we left Ebernoe, Ann saw a HORNET. On the way, a BRIMSTONE butterfly flew across the road, and at Colhook I stopped to look at a tiny pond which produced a fine male BROAD-BODIED CHASER.

late SUMMER
1998 - 27 August:
After lunch, we drove to Ebernoe where I parked in the usual place and then walked down to Furnace Pond. Dragonflies were absent, for the most part. I saw one MIGRANT HAWKER. I had a good look at the Pond from various angles and was just about to leave when a superb HOBBY female appeared, sweeping across the Pond and crashing into the tops of the REED MACE. She was clearly catching dragonflies, so I then realised why there weren't any! She disappeared, but then appeared again, this time to perch on an open dead branch, overlooking the Pond. I had superb views of her, perhaps the best I have ever had of a Hobby.

Leaving her to her hunting, I walked back to the car, then set off for the Fish Pond which I reached in less than 10 minutes. This Pond was almost heaving with Odonata. There were lots of RUDDY DARTERS around the WATER HORSE-TAIL, and down the side of the Pond I found quite a few SOUTHERN HAWKERS, perhaps eight in all. Several came very close indeed and I was often able to see the wide apple-green antehumerals. There were one or two MIGRANT HAWKERS, too, but well out over the Pond and hunting higher than cyanea.

early AUTUMN
1997 - 21 August:
A day trip to Ebernoe today. Our first objective on arrival was Furnace Pond. A NUTHATCH was calling, also a GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER. Over the beds of TYPHA there were a number of MIGRANT HAWKERS. It was difficult to be sure just how many, but I reckoned on no more than a dozen. There appeared to be nothing else, so we pushed on, walking along the usual route through the woodland. NUTHATCHES were very noisy, and we heard JAYS, too. Otherwise, the woods seemed to be quite quiet. On the way back, I heard and then saw something moving through the leaves. Ann was able to see it rather better and noted that it was a snake, with a white mark on each side of the neck - a GRASS SNAKE. Unfortunately, it moved away into the leaves and was gone. A GREEN WOODPECKER called and we heard several MARSH TITS. Back at the Pond, LONG-TAILED TITS were noisy as they moved through the woodland. A BROWN HAWKER which appeared over the TYPHA was nice to see. A CHIFFCHAFF was singing near at hand. A movement among the leaves revealed a WOOD MOUSE which remained static while we moved closer. We left him (or her) in peace!

Coming back up to the top of the steps we saw our first SPECKLED WOOD. A MEADOW BROWN was by the church.

After a break and a drink - it was very hot, we walked to Furnace Meadow. Almost immediately we saw two MIGRANT HAWKERS which were flying along the edge of the woodland. A drift of FLEABANE had some GATEKEEPERS, also several male COMMON BLUE butterflies. Several MEADOW BROWNS were noted, also a SMALL TORTOISESHELL. A couple of COMMON DARTERS were along the hedgerow. In the bottom of the valley there were at least three more MIGRANT HAWKERS. However, it was very hot, so most things had gone to ground, I think.

A STOCK DOVE was singing in the woods and several SWALLOWS went over.

We arrived at the Fish Pond just after 11.30. There were lots of COMMON DARTERS there, some in pairs and egg-laying in an area of open water. An estimate was of at least 30 individuals, but there could have been even more. There was a great deal of activity, with pairs in tandem, dipping up and down, single insects rising up to intercept others which were passing by, and so on.

A path down the left-hand side of the Pond attracted our attention: I remember making my way along it the last time we were there. It is not well-marked and is tricky in places. At a small area which had recently been cleared of TYPHUS and other vegetation, a male SOUTHERN HAWKER appeared, cruising around. That was a surprise. An even bigger surprise was when a female appeared, too. Almost at once she flew down amongst the low BRAMBLES, literally scrambling through the leaves and began to lay eggs into the leaf-litter below. We watched her for some time as she pushed her tail-end down amongst the damp leaves, before she managed to extricate herself and fly back along the edge of the pool. No wonder their wings often show signs of wear and tear!

We waited some time to see whether anything else might appear and then examined another spot, overlooking where all the COMMON DARTERS were in evidence. We were not disappointed. A male RUDDY DARTER appeared, at one stage settling quite close to us on a log. Moving back to the path, we stood again in the sunshine, overlooking the main area. Another beautiful male RUDDY DARTER appeared, this one dropping on to the grass just in front of us. Looking around, we reckoned that there were at least eight RUDDY DARTERS in all, all glowing males. Two of them were skirmishing for a particular perch on a leaf. A single MIGRANT HAWKER appeared.

A SPECKLED WOOD was flying in the sunshine and we saw several more as we made our way past the old buildings and so through the woodland. Another RUDDY DARTER was near the buildings, and there were five GREEN-VEINED WHITES on FLEABANE, also a GATEKEEPER. Thinking about the SPECKLED WOODS, we totted up about 20 individuals so far.

Back at the car-park, we found yet another male RUDDY DARTER, on BRAMBLES. I stalked it carefully, taking three pictures. It was very lively in the intense heat!

After lunch, I wandered around along the path and clearing behind the car-park. It was very quiet, although I watched a MARSH TIT which was taking thistle seed and flying with it up into the trees. It had a dull cap and a smallish bib. A WOODPECKER was hammering away somewhere, but I could not see it to be sure of its identity. I suspected GREAT SPOTTED. A MIGRANT HAWKER was hunting along the trees.

Driving out of the car-park, we turned right to go along to Wassell Mill. A short distance along the road, opposite a cottage, a fine BROWN HAWKER passed us, going the other way. Although we stopped, it was nowhere to be seen. At Wassell Mill it was quiet, although we did see a GREY WAGTAIL which flew under the bridge. A SPECKLED WOOD was seen. Ann had a look at the other side of the bridge, where the water flows through and where it is overgrown with vegetation. She described a bird which she had seen: it could only have been a NIGHTINGALE, russet brown above, greyish below and with a pale eye-ring.

mid-SUMMER
1996 - 06 June:
Another warm and sunny morning. Off to Ebernoe just after nine o'clock. A good run, with little traffic after Chichester. Before running into the restricted section outside Halnaker, a PAINTED LADY flew across the road. Near the Shepherds' Church, in the Downs, a male BRIMSTONE was flying along the roadside. Just south of Petworth, where the road crosses the river, a NIGHTINGALE was singing from WILLOW scrub and bushes. But for the fact that we had the roof open and windows partly down, we would never have heard it. Along the lane to Ebernoe, after leaving the main Petworth/Godalming road, the air was full of bird-song. It was quite extraordinary - CHIFFCHAFF, WILLOW WARBLER, BLACKCAP, GARDEN WARBLER, SONG THRUSH, CHAFFINCH, GOLDCREST, ROBIN, BLACKBIRD and so on. Two GARDEN WARBLERS were singing near Ebernoe hamlet.

Leaving the car under the trees, we noted a COCKCHAFER which was flying in the hot sunshine. It was a relief to walk down among the trees, just to get out of the heat! The Furnace Pond seemed empty at first, but we soon found a breeding-dress LITTLE GREBE, with a youngster out on the water. Blue damselflies were on the wing in some numbers, but I could not be sure of the species. A GREY HERON at the far end of the Pond was making a great deal of noise. As if by magic, a dark-looking dragonfly with a bulbous abdomen appeared, hovering quite close to us, under the trees and in the shade. The bronzy-coloured thorax and behaviour indicated a male DOWNY EMERALD, our first for the year. Making our way along the Pond, we found a LARGE RED DAMSELFLY which was sunning itself on a HAZEL leaf. Scanning the reeds, the DOWNY EMERALD was seen again. Three blue-spotted Aeshna-type dragonflies were HAIRY DRAGONFLY males, hunting along the reeds. The blue spotting on each individual was easily seen. Out of nowhere, a blue-bodied male BROAD-BODIED CHASER appeared, zooming around at high speed.

Pushing on beyond the end of the Pond, we followed the footpath through the woodland and then crossed the end of the Pond and climbed the slope beyond. We followed this path and then discovered that it was really going nowhere in particular: It ended up in a field of potatoes! Making our way back by using dead-reckoning, we eventually discovered the Furnace Pond again, but to cross to dry land, I had to build a rickety bridge out of dead branches which I managed to scavenge around us. It was very swampy, with a WILLOW containing a GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER'S nest which had a youngster which was calling vigorously. The adult left the hole in a hurry!

Back at Furnace Pond, a female BROAD-BODIED CHASER appeared. Like the original male, she was zooming around at high speed and was very difficult to follow against the background.

Making our way back to the car, we were amazed to hear a continuous noise which sounded like rain. In fact, it turned out to be caterpillar frass which was dropping from the OAKS on to the dry leaves below. Goodness knows how many caterpillars were involved!

Back at the car, a SILVER-Y moth was around GROUND IVY. A PAINTED LADY was feeding at a colourful patch of BUGLE which was flowering in an open ride, just behind the car. While we were having lunch, we were amazed to count one PAINTED LADY after another as they swept across the car-park and passed over the roof of the Church at high speed.

After a break, we walked down the track to look at Furnace Meadow. There were a great many PAINTED LADIES there: we reckon that we had seen at least 15 by the time we walked back. A couple of male COMMON BLUES were inspecting BIRD'S-FOOT TREFOIL, and we found two SMALL COPPERS which were whirling around each other. At least one NIGHTINGALE was singing in the woodlands below the Meadow.

Leaving Ann in the car, I walked back down the Lane and passed Furnace Meadow, hoping to find the Fish Pond. As I was passing the end of the Meadow, a very damp area on the right indicated some water, largely overgrown with reeds and the like. Trying to see a white butterfly which was fluttering around, I found instead a beautiful female CALOPTERYX VIRGO dragonfly. I had superb views of it as it sat on the end of an ALDER branch, occasionally flying out to capture passing prey. It had a lovely metallic green body and warm brown wings.

Unfortunately (or fortunately as it turned out!), I missed the left hand turning to the Fish Pond and carried on ahead, eventually reaching a red-brick farmhouse (Siblands Farm) where I ran out of courage, realising that I had come badly adrift. Just short of the farmhouse (where I saw a RED ADMIRAL), I spotted a STOAT which was making a lot of noise by running through the dry leaves. Shortly, it ran across in front of me, carrying a dead, young RABBIT. I had an excellent view. Coming back, I heard a NIGHTINGALE and was delighted to be pulled up short by a LESSER SPOTTED WOODPECKER which called in a high and thick OAK. Other birds included at least one calling NUTHATCH and a singing WILLOW WARBLER. A STOCK DOVE was singing near at hand.

Looking along yet another woodland path, a rustling noise in the undergrowth revealed a small GRASS SNAKE which slithered away into cover. Back on the main Lane (the Green Road, I think it is called), a GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER was calling, although I could not see it. It was drumming, too, a far-carrying rolling.

The next footpath, on the right as I headed back towards the car, was the correct one for the Fish Pond. As I made my way along it, I felt that it was 'right'. The trees looked familiar and shortly I found the old buildings of the Brick Kiln and within a stone's throw the Fish Pond. It was well over-grown with HORSE-TAIL and reeds. However, there were a few dragonflies to see, although it was hard work! A LARGE RED DAMSELFLY was nice to see, and there were again blue damselflies in small numbers. A female BROAD-BODIED CHASER was sitting up on the head of a reed, enjoying the sunshine. Another dragonfly was sitting up with wings outstretched. The wings had warm brown leading edges. The thorax appeared to be brown, the abdomen an undoubted smoky blue-grey. I could not see a dark tail. Yet another BROAD-BODIED CHASER appeared, hawking for prey over the reeds. A TREECREEPER was singing amongst the trees.

Back at the car, Ann reported at least 11 PAINTED LADIES going by, to which we added yet another five within the space of a few minutes.

Before heading for Burton Park Pond, we drove along to the mill, Wassell Mill, a couple of minutes along the road. The water-levels were rather higher than they were last year when we went there! A cock GREY WAGTAIL was our first bird, up on the roof of the old stables from which it flew down on to the river where I could see the black diamond under the throat. A NIGHTINGALE was singing in the WILLOW swamp, and I was lucky enough to have a fleeting view of a duck MANDARIN which slipped away into cover. A drake was not visible, nor, for that matter, any young. A LARGE RED DAMSELFLY was the only member of the Odonata which we recorded, although it will be good later on.

early AUTUMN
1996 - 05 September
A grey morning, but with a cock BLACKCAP singing in the back garden. Sub-song at first, but then becoming louder, almost to the stage of being the full-blown spring song.

Away to Ebernoe by five past nine. On the way up the hill, north of Halnaker, and while following other traffic, a fine TAWNY OWL flew across the road, giving us good if brief views.

The journey took an hour, largely because of cussed-minded heavy traffic which would not pull over and let other vehicles past. The sun was breaking through and as I got out of the car, I could hear a STOCK DOVE singing not too far away. Innumerable ROBINS were singing, too. A SPECKLED WOOD fluttered past.

Initially we walked down to the Furnace Pond where almost immediately we saw a KINGFISHER which shot away and disappeared. A couple of MIGRANT HAWKERS were hunting along the reeds, but dragonflies appeared to be scarce. JAYS were calling close by, and there were MARSH TITS around, too.

Back up the steps and thence to Furnace Meadow. Two GREY SQUIRRELS were scampering through the branches and the open meadow had a fair population of butterflies: MEADOW BROWN, GATEKEEPER, COMMON BLUE, PAINTED LADY and SMALL TORTOISESHELL. At least two MIGRANT HAWKERS were hunting around the bushes. BULLFINCHES were calling from thick cover and a SPARROWHAWK flew over. GREAT SPOTTED and GREEN WOODPECKERS were calling.

We found the stile and path through the woodlands to the Fish Pond where we found a male RUDDY DARTER which was resting on a dead leaf close to the path. The occasional SPECKLED WOOD was seen and we heard a TREECREEPER calling. By the buildings of the Brick Kiln, there was another SPECKLED WOOD. A CHIFFCHAFF was in song.

Walking back through the woods, we heard more BULLFINCHES and a second CHIFFCHAFF in song. NUTHATCHES had been quiet so far, but here we heard one, but failed to see it. A PEACOCK butterfly nectaring at a tall THISTLE was our first for the morning. As we made our way back to the car, several more SPECKLED WOODS were seen. Back at the car, a SPARROWHAWK flew over the trees and there were a few GOLDFINCHES around. A HOLLY BLUE was by the church. Sitting in the sun, a small butterfly arrived to keep us company. It was a female PURPLE HAIRSTREAK which stayed for a while, investigating RABBIT droppings. Looking up into the OAK behind us, I saw another PURPLE HAIRSTREAK, albeit briefly. Another HOLLY BLUE flew round: it was a female. A SOUTHERN HAWKER was around the foliage of the BIRCHES and OAKS.

After our lunch, we left and drove along to Wassell Mill. I had a short walk, but was somewhat intimidated by the hostile dogs which reside in sheds and the like. As I walked along from the car, a single BANDED AGRION (Calopteryx splendens) male flew along and across the road. It dipped over the parapet of the bridge, but I failed to find it again. A pair of COMMON DARTER were egg-laying in the river below the bridge. A SPECKLED WOOD was near the bridge and I saw a MIGRANT HAWKER by the Mill itself.

TO READ: The Sussex Wildlife Trust has a leaflet on the area and published a very useful book in 1993, entitled The Wild Places of Sussex - A guide to the Nature Reserves of the Sussex Wildlife Trust. A page of text about Ebernoe is complemented by a full-page sketch map.The Trust can be found at: Woods Mill, Henfield, West Sussex, BN5 9SD. tel: 01273 492630.

Screen Management
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