BURTON MILL POND and environs

Features to visit include BURTON MILL POND and CHINGFORD POND, also the BLACK HOLE. Beyond this area, only five minutes' drive, lies COATES COMMON and its pool. Much of this area is administered by the Sussex Wildlife Trust.

ACCESS: You can reach this superb area from the A285, turning eastwards along a minor road some two miles south of Petworth. This road winds a little and can be quite busy with traffic. Take it easy as you approach the Mill Pond (which you will see through the trees ahead and on your right), and at a sharp left hand bend turn left immediately and so down into the car-park. It is a small parking area, but is surfaced and adjacent to the Mill. A look around the environs of the Mill itself will be rewarding at almost any season. Access along the western side of the Mill Pond is along a public right of way, as is the route between the Mill Pond and Chingford Pond.

Like Ebernoe, for an interesting and varied day out, this, too, takes some beating. Look at the shoreline of the Mill Pond (you can walk inside the railings), then take a foot-path which runs along the western shore through Birch woodlands, past the venerable and alas declining Sweet Chestnut trees (planted in the mid-1700s), and thence to the left through the newly-developed area of houses and cottages. And so between the Mill Pond itself and Chingford Pond on the right.Onward and then bearing left will take you through some coniferous woodland and an elevated and dry area, and so along the edge of a swamp environment. Beyond, you will encounter the the Black Hole with its board-walk. Beyond the Black Hole, join the minor road and turn left, turning left again at the cross-roads, and so walk back to Burton Mill and the car-park. Take care, these 'minor' roads can be remarkably busy at times! This walk provides a remarkable cross-section of habitats and will take a minimum of two hours, allowing for stops!

Coates Common is only five minutes or so drive away. Coming out of the car-park at the Mill, turn left. Continue straight ahead over the cross-roads and bear right where the road forks. and drops downhill. Almost immediately, you will see the heathland on your left and then the pool. There is an official off-road car-park just beyond, also on the left. Beware overhead bar if you are driving a tall vehicle! There are various walks here over the heathland which climbs up towards the north. Listen for Woodlarks and, in summer, for Field Crickets.

Please do not leave public rights of way. All habitats can be enjoyed without doing so.

BIRDLIFE: A visit at any time of the year is to be recommended. There is always something to see, especially in the late spring when all the summer breeders are arriving. Even in winter it can be a profitable walk. Summer breeders/migrants on and around both Burton Mill Pond and Chingford Pond include Great Crested Grebes, Tufted Ducks, Gadwall and Pochard, Reed Warblers (even Cetti's on one occasion), and Grey Wagtails which breed at the Mill. Hobby Falcons visit occasionally and it is one of the few localities where Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers may be encountered. Birds in winter may include Siskins and Redpolls, but numbers vary from year to year. The Black Hole has woodpeckers, including Lesser Spotted on occasions. Coates Common hosts Woodlarks.

MAMMALS: Roe Deer are numerous and frequently seen. Badgers occur here, too, and we have often seen signs of them. As far as I know, there are no official mammal' lists.

PLANTS: This area provides a mosaic of habitats. Birch woodland, Alder swamps, some limited coniferous woodland. Specialities include Bog Bean and Marsh Cinquefoil (the Black Hole), Marsh Marigold, and orchids . Coates Common is dry heathland and has plants adapted to this relatively dry environment.

INSECTS: Depending upon the season and, of course, the weather, butterflies can be interesting. Our lists for the whole area include Brimstone, Speckled Wood, Painted Lady etc., look at the Diary' entries for more details. Especially, in summer, listen for Field Crickets on Coates Common.

Dragonflies can be excellent. The shoreline adjacent to the road at the Mill will provide sightings of such beauties as the Brown Hawker and Scarce Chaser, the latter quite local anywhere in the South of England.In the late summer, the circular walk, on a good day with some sunshine, can be a joy. Migrant Hawker, perhaps Golden-ringed, Southern Hawker, Common and Ruddy Darters, Broad-bodied Chaser and so on.

Perhaps the best area of all is the Black Hole where a board-walk provides access across most of this splendid spot. According to season, Scarce Chasers are numerous here, Ruddy darters are breeders, and, best of all perhaps, the Golden-ringed Dragonfly may be noted. Both the Beautiful Demoiselle (Calopteryx virgo) and the Downy Emeralds can be found in association with streams which run out of the Hole. As at Ebernoe, the Hornet is often a mid-summer feature, found in a number of localities and, in recent years, especially along the edge of the coniferous woodland above the Mill Pond.

REPTILES and AMPHIBIANS: We have seen Adders out on open heathland areas, close to the Black Hole, for instance, also Common Lizards. The Black Hole is also a good place for Grass Snakes.

To give you a better impression of what this outstand area has to offer, we include a number of Diary entries below. We visit mainly in the spring and summer, but occasionally enjoy a winter walk, too.

2001 - 31 May:
A bright blue morning. Feeling chilly. Temperature at 7 o'clock 54 Fahrenheit. It had been down to 52 overnight. A sunny morning, however.

Away to Burton Mill at 9 o'clock. On arrival in the Mill' car-park, a CHIFFCHAFF was singing vigorously, also a BLACKCAP and a GREENFINCH. We had a look around the Mill immediately, finding a number of LARGE RED DAMSELFLIES, two BLACK-TAILED SKIMMERS, a male and a female, the former coming to rest on a wooden balustrade. There were several SCARCE CHASERS, almost all of them males. I found also several VARIABLE DAMSELFLIES, flying among grasses by the small car-park. A female BEAUTIFUL DEMOISELLE was good to see, too. Around the buildings we found a couple of male BANDED DEMOISELLES, also a female. A single BLUE-TAILED DAMSELFLY was seen. A fine male ORANGE-TIP was good to see. We heard a GREY WAGTAIL, also a GOLDCREST. A COMMON WHITETHROAT was singing.

Crossing the road, we wandered along inside the fence. The Mill Pond was virtually birdless, only a few COOTS being seen, also a MUTE SWAN with five cygnets, and a GREY HERON. REED WARBLERS were singing in the PHRAGMITES' beds. Out on the water lilies I found a RED-EYED DAMSELFLY, then a second one.

And so into the woodlands for our usual walk. We saw a HAIRY DRAGONFLY, also a very large female ADDER. Two SCARCE CHASERS were flying up from some low vegetation. They tangled frequently but I was able to see them at rest and satisfy my identifications! A BLUE-TAILED DAMSELFLY was seen, also a LARGE RED DAMSELFLY. A TREECREEPER was singing up in the BIRCHES. A GREEN TIGER-BEETLE was interesting to see. A GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER was rattling somewhere among the woodlands. A PEACOCK butterfly was resting on the ground, presumably gathering some heat.

Round at the Black Hole we heard our first WILLOW WARBLER for the day, also a singing SONG THRUSH. A TAWNY OWL was calling in the trees - kee-wick, kee-wick, kee-wick. They seem to be scarce this year. Our walk to the Board Walk and then round to the other side produced a wealth of sightings of Odonata. There were lots of LARGE RED DAMSELFLIES. Two more SCARCE CHASERS gave the impression that they had not been out very long. A GREEN WOODPECKER called. We explored beyond the Black Hole, towards the meadow where they have cows, normally, but found nothing new.

Back at the Board walk, the sun came out. It was very hot. HAIRY DRAGONFLIES were noted, lots of LARGE RED DAMSELFLIES, and a great many SCARCE CHASERS. I had good looks at some of them. Amazing views, both in flight, hovering, and at rest. A GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER was calling. A very large HAWKER dragonfly may well have been a COMMON. It had a lot of blue spotting down the abdomen so far as I could see, but it was fast, very fast! It stayed near me but a moment or two before shooting away. It had a blue-spotted appearance and although SOUTHERN HAWKER came into my head, immediately I had that thought, I began to have doubts. It looked very large indeed. Yet another male HAIRY DRAGONFLY looked diminutive!

On my way back along the Board Walk a VIVIPAROUS LIZARD slipped over the edge and disappeared. When I got back to Ann, whom I had left sitting in the sun, she had had a HORNET and a two LARGE WHITE butterflies.

When we reached Coates Common, we parked in the little car-park and had our lunch. A LITTLE OWL was calling somewhere, and FIELD CRICKETS were well into their stride. Then, I had a walk to the pool. Passing through the gate, I disturbed a HORNET which came at me. Luckily, I was able to shoo it away! The pool was amazing. Male BROAD-BODIED CHASERS were bombing along the shoreline, and I saw at least two females, too. FOUR-SPOTTED CHASERS numbered, perhaps, half a dozen. One of them was egg-laying. A male EMPEROR flew across, but vanished almost as soon as I had seen it. LARGE RED DAMSELFLIES were everywhere. I saw a number of HAIRY DRAGONFLIES, too, also a male SPLENDENS! The sun was out and it was hot, so everything was hyper-active!

I heard a couple of YELLOWHAMMERS in song and, not too far away, I could hear the lovely cadences of a WOODLARK. I tried hard to find it, but failed to do so. A GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER was calling on the other side of the road. In the distance, I could hear a TREE PIPIT singing. A BRIMSTONE butterfly appeared, flying among the BIRCHES, then a second.

Afterwards, I walked back to the car and Ann was able to look at the pool, too, seeing everything I had seen, except the Emperor. It seemed to have gone completely. We walked up the hill, seeing TREE PIPITS and just enjoying the place. Up at the top of the hill, two GARDEN WARBLERS were singing close at hand, and we heard yet another GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER. As we came down the hill, Ann spotted a BEE-FLY. A GREEN WOODPECKER called.

Back at the pool we had another look at the dragonflies. In the distance I heard what I was sure were CROSSBILLS. The sounds ceased and so I had just about given them up when, suddenly, eight of them flew into a dead tree, the one standing in the water. They were superb. Five of them were fully-coloured males, the remainder the usual dull brownish-green colour. They remained there four three or four minutes, before leaving in a hurry and joined by two more which we had not seen as they were in an OAK tree. The went off fast and low, going westwards.

2001 - 16 August:
Up early, with a view to making a good and leisurely start for our day out to Burton Mill and the Ponds. Temperature at 7 o'clock 61 Fahrenheit, the lowest of the night, too. A bright morning, with cloud that was beginning to break up quickly. Quite a wind, at least Force 5 from the south-west.

Away to Burton Mill at 9.15, arriving there half an hour later! On our arrival, we had a look around the Mill first. It was disappointing and I wondered what kind of day we were going to have. We heard GREY WAGTAILS along the stream, but saw nothing of them. The Pond looked good in the morning sunshine, but we found no Great Crested Grebes, again. Only MALLARD were out there, plus a handful of TUFTED DUCKS. The walk along by the railings was difficult as no one has cleared the normal path. Up in the corner, where the punts are moored, we had our first luck - one BROWN HAWKER, and then a second. Views were fleeting, but good. A BLUE-TAILED DAMSELFLY and a COMMON BLUE DAMSELFLY were noted.

The walk through the woodlands produced at least two SOUTHERN HAWKERS, one of them seen perched, and a further two COMMON BLUE DAMSELS. Birdwise, it was rather quiet, although from time to time we heard calling LEAF WARBLERS. At least two more SOUTHERN HAWKERS were seen were around the old SWEET CHESTNUTS which we found loaded with fruits: for their age, they are quite remarkable. Here, we saw and heard a JAY. A COMMON DARTER was listed, also a single SPECKLED WOOD. Ann could smell FOX.

Continuing on, we walked through the dwellings, noting the various developments. One house, the one on the corner, has a wonderful wild flower garden, with any number of plants - VIPER'S BUGLOSS, WILD CARROT, YARROW, KNAPWEED and OX-EYE DAISY, also EVENING PRIMROSE. Another SOUTHERN HAWKER was noted here, also a GATEKEEPER and two MEADOW BROWNS. A GREEN WOODPECKER called and we saw a female GREEN-VEINED WHITE.

Chingford Pond had a pair of GADWALLS, a COMMON SANDPIPER and a few COOT, otherwise it was quiet. The water level is very low. I heard a TREECREEPER calling, also LONG-TAILED TITS, before we walked through the grove of LARCH trees. There we heard GOLDCRESTS calling and saw YELLOW PIMPERNEL in flower. Two STOCK DOVES flew over. Two more SOUTHERN HAWKERS were along the edge of the woodland. The swamp woodlands were very quiet; we heard virtually nothing, not even any tits! But, we had one surprise, a WATER RAIL calling, i.e., sharming, somewhere down below us. Out on the road we walked through and had a look at the Black Hole. Unfortunately, it was dull overhead by this time, with some very heavy showers around. So, apart from a male RUDDY DARTER, and a beautiful RED ADMIRAL little was to be seen.

We had a brief look at the board-walk, the Black Hole. SKULLCAP was in flower, also a tall yellow Loosestrife-type of plant. A male RUDDY DARTER was there, and a GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER was heard. It was dull, unfortunately, so we walked back to the car, seeing two SOUTHERN HAWKERS on the way. A BULLFINCH was calling near the cross-roads and we noted a number of CHAFFINCHES: they seem to be flocking up. A NUTHATCH was calling, and as we walked along down the hill we heard a SONG THRUSH singing. We ate our lunches in developing sunshine, even though a rogue shower had the temerity to spot the windscreen! A nice BROWN HAWKER went by a couple of times, and we saw a GREEN-VEINED WHITE. There was also a MIGRANT HAWKER.

And so to Coates Common and the pond there. It was lovely by this time and the dragonflies, those which were there, were doing their stuff. A BROWN HAWKER was around for a short while. A male BROAD-BODIED CHASER gave me excellent views at close range. There were lots of COMMON DARTERS, some egg-laying, and at least one pair of RUDDY DARTERS, in tandem, which were bobbing up and down over some JUNCUS, far from the edge of the Pond! It reminded me of the pair which did the same on our lawn, close to the Dragonfly Pond, some years ago. There were quite a few MEADOW BROWNS. There were at least 10 PONIES grazing on the heathland.

From Coates Pond we drove back to the Black Hole. I had an initial foray, then Ann walked with me and we had a glorious time along the board walk, seeing two superb GOLDEN-RINGED DRAGONFLIES, at least one SOUTHERN HAWKER and lots of RUDDY DARTERS, most males in full colour. I took some pictures of the Golden-ringed and hope for good results. [They were!] As I went along the board-walk, I noticed what must have been a CONEHEAD grasshopper. It ran, rather than hopped, and slipped from leaf to leaf, then dropping down into the herbage where I could not see it at all. A superb BROWN HAWKER flew by and we heard GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER and MARSH TIT. A female GREEN-VEINED WHITE flew by.

2001 - 31 October:
A bright and sunny morning, after a lot of overnight rain. Rather cold compared to temperatures of late. At 7 a.m., the thermometer was standing at 51 Fahrenheit. Overnight it had been down to 49 degrees. Wind from the west, around Force 2.

Away to Burton Mill. A good journey, parking in the little car-park by the Mill at 10.20. Almost at once, Ann spotted a large dragonfly which she was able to see to advantage as it swept to and fro over the grasses by the car. It was a MIGRANT HAWKER. It soon vanished unfortunately. At least two RED ADMIRALS were enjoying the warm sunshine in the shelter of the trees. Walking down and past the Mill, we noted two GREY WAGTAILS on the roof. One had caught prey which looked like a TIPULID of some sort. As we climbed the slope to reach the road, we looked back and found two PIED WAGTAILS on the roof!

The Pond produced two CORMORANTS, a COMMON GULL, two BLACK-HEADED GULLS, half a dozen POCHARDS and a pair of TUFTED DUCKS. There were also a few COOT.

Walking along the road past the front of the Mill, there was our MIGRANT HAWKER again, picking prey from the twigs and leaves of the low-cut hedge. We were able to watch it at length in direct sunshine. Up in the corner of the Mill Pond, where the punts are tied up, we found either the same insect or another MIGRANT HAWKER, also a SOUTHERN HAWKER which settled and so gave a good view. At least two COMMON DARTERS were noted. A KINGFISHER had flown into this corner of the Pond earlier, and flew off while we were watching the dragonflies.

And so through the woods along the western side of the Pond. Where a clearing has been made, allowing a view out on to the Pond, I had excellent views of another male MIGRANT HAWKER. There were additional HAWKERS there, too, but they moved off and I did not see them again, despite waiting around. Alas, the woodlands turned out to be pretty well birdless. We heard a MARSH TIT, also a GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER. A REDPOLL flew over, calling. As we cleared the BIRCHES and headed for the ancient SWEET CHESTNUTS, two superb BUZZARDS flew over. One began to circle and was soon pestered by a CARRION CROW. Both BUZZARDS were dark birds.

Along by the SWEET CHESTNUTS we had a couple of RED ADMIRALS, then a PAINTED LADY which flew on to a NETTLE, then settled on the path to sunbathe. Two more large dragonflies came into view, but we were unable to be sure of their identity. A NUTHATCH was calling close by, then a GOLDCREST appeared, feeding on the edge of the canopy of a HAWTHORN. As we passed the houses, a MISTLE THRUSH flew overhead.

At Chingford Lake we noted several TEAL, some MALLARD and at least six GADWALL. As we watched, a HORNET flew by! That was a surprise at such a late date. Within a minute or so, a second HORNET appeared, giving us super views in the sunshine. And so through the Conifer Grove, hearing GOLDCRESTS calling high up in the canopy. Two more HORNETS appeared, one of them flying to and fro as though not too sure of where it wanted to go. Indeed, one might have thought that it was quite inebriated. We looked hard for a damaged tree with sap running down, but drew a blank.

Out in the sunshine, along the edge of more conifers, two more HORNETS entertained us, one of them coming down so low that we both ducked involuntarily! They are so large at such close range! Again, we looked for a possible feeding site, but failed.

Over an open field, we watched another MIGRANT HAWKER bombing around. Clearly it was investigating the herbage for prey.

The Black Hole had a very large dragonfly which was cruising over the herbage in the sunshine. Unfortunately, it moved away with impressive speed and we never did see it again. We stayed around on the board-walk for some time, just waiting for anything to turn up. I heard SISKINS in the far distance, and a MARSH TIT close at hand, but that was about it, apart from a couple of COMMON DARTERS which were egg-laying.

Looking briefly on the other side of the road, an area cleared last year and ideal for Odonata, what should I see but yet another HORNET which flew across in front of me. Otherwise, there was nothing else on the wing there. So, onward along the road, up towards the cross-roads where we were to turn left and so back to the Mill. As we came up the road, just short of the cross-roads, a FOX ran across and so on to Welch's Common. He stopped briefly and gave us a good view, before speeding on his way.

Back at the Mill car-park, the MIGRANT HAWKER appeared again, just as we were driving the short distance to Coates Common. As we drove into the tiny car-park there, a HORNET flew across in front of the car! I had lost count by this time, but reckoned that we must have seen eight so far.

After lunch, I had a walk down to the Pool. No dragonflies on this occasion, however, indeed nothing of note. Leaving the Pool, I had a walk up towards the pines. On the way, I noted very distinct BADGERS' tracks. There were also other tracks, perhaps of a small deer. But these defeated my abilities. They looked so small! A beautiful GREEN WOODPECKER went bounding away.

Going back to the car, and seeing and hearing three SISKINS on the way, I persuaded Ann to come and see the Badgers' tracks. These I found again and photographed. Walking back to the car by way of the road, we disturbed a female ROE DEER which went bounding away through the dense trees. As she did so, we became aware of something calling. It was a repetitive note, sounding a little like a defective toy trumpet. We stood for a few minutes and then were amazed to see a ROE DEER' fawn which also bounded away, in pursuit of its mother. Withdrawing on to the other side of the road, it became evident that the youngster had returned to the original spot. It was still calling and continued to do so as we departed.

The sun was still shining beautifully, so we returned home by way of Ambersham Common. I had a walk there, but found nothing. Again, the country seemed to be virtually birdless. All I heard, in the very far distance, was a SISKIN and a GREEN WOODPECKER.

Back through North Bersted to reach home, As we turned at the roundabout and drove up Chalcroft Lane what should we see on the pavement but a young FOX. It seemed quite at home amongst all the traffic and even people! Amazing.

TO READ: The Sussex Wildlife Trust has a leaflet on the area and published a very useful book in 1993, entitled The Wild Places of Sussex - A guide to the Nature Reserves of the Sussex Wildlife Trust. A page of text about Ebernoe is complemented by a full-page sketch map.

Screen Management
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